This year, while many of our friends in the U.S. celebrated Thanksgiving, we found ourselves in a different kind of celebration — a harvest gathering in Umbria, Italy, at the home of friends from Aspen in a house that once belonged to the groundbreaking artist Beverly Pepper.
Why Umbria Should Be on Your List
Often overshadowed by its more famous neighbor, Tuscany, Umbria is Italy’s green heart — a region of rolling hills, medieval hill towns, and an authenticity that feels like a step back in time. Known for its tranquil landscapes, vineyards, and olive groves, Umbria is a haven for those who crave a slower, richer experience of Italy. Unlike many tourist hubs, Umbria offers unfiltered Italian culture, making it one of the country’s best-kept secrets.
Sangiovese vineyards in Umbria
Umbria Highlights:
- Food and Wine: This region is a paradise for food lovers. It's home to truffles, wild boar, hearty lentils, and Sagrantino wine — all of which are celebrated during the harvest season.
- Nature and Scenery: Known as "Il Cuore Verde d'Italia" (The Green Heart of Italy), Umbria’s landscapes range from the Apennine Mountains to fertile plains dotted with olive trees and vineyards.
- Cultural and Historical Depth: From the Basilica of St. Francis in Assisi to the jazz festivals of Perugia, Umbria is alive with history, art, and music.
Todi: An Umbrian Gem
Our journey took us to Todi, a quintessential Umbrian hill town that seems to float above the Tiber Valley. Todi is a place where every cobblestone street, weathered wall, and panoramic view feels like a Renaissance painting.
With origins tracing back to the Etruscans, Todi has been shaped by layers of history from Roman ruins to medieval architecture, yet somehow timeless. Its centerpiece is the Piazza del Popolo, one of Italy's most picturesque squares, lined with Gothic and Romanesque buildings like the Todi Cathedral (built over an ancient Roman temple, its steps provide a perfect spot to sit and take in the scene) and Palazzo del Popolo and Palazzo del Capitano (medieval palaces that anchor the town’s civic life and history).
Todi is nestled on a hill with sweeping views of Umbria.
Palazzo del Popolo: One of the oldest communal palaces in Italy, dating back to the early 13th century. It houses the city's art gallery and features impressive medieval architecture.
The church was built on the site of a miraculous event. According to legend, a worker who cleaned an image of the Madonna here was miraculously healed, prompting the construction of the church. As a result, it became an important pilgrimage destination.
The Beverly Pepper Connection
Todi's charm is enriched by its connection to Beverly Pepper (1922–2020), an influential American sculptor known for her pioneering work in large-scale outdoor sculptures and land art, who adopted the town as her home. Her career spanned over seven decades, and she is celebrated for her innovative use of materials, monumental works, and the way she harmonized sculpture with natural landscapes. Her work can be found all over the world, but Pepper’s presence is still felt in Todi through the Beverly Pepper Sculpture Park. Opened in 2019, the park features 16 of her sculptures set against the backdrop of Umbria's rolling hills — a seamless blend of art and nature.
Our friends’ home, once owned by Pepper herself, radiates the same creative spirit. Celebrating the harvest there felt like honoring both the land’s abundance and the legacy of an artist who understood how to merge humanity with landscape.
A Different Kind of Harvest Celebration
Unlike Thanksgiving, which is rooted in American history, the Italian harvest is a timeless ritual tied to the rhythm of the land. In Todi, we experienced the joy of freshly pressed olive oil, fresh pasta, local wines, and the warmth of a table surrounded by friends.
It was a reminder that gratitude transcends cultures and that celebrating the bounty of the earth is universal. In the quiet beauty of Umbria, we connected to gratitude, to the land, to art, and to the similarities that bind us across cultures.
If you want a quiet Italian adventure, don’t overlook Todi and Umbria. Come for the history, stay for the art, and savor the authenticity. It's a place where time slows down, and every moment feels like a gift.
